Waxing my mustache (bar)

I returned the mustache bar to the 280z.  To begin the return of the mustache, I started by removing the old bushings.  While I didn't snap any pics of their removal, the process entailed using a blowtorch to set the old rubber bushings on fire and letting them burn until all the rubber "dripped" out of the shell.  This stage was actually kind of fun.

The next step was to use a wire wheel to prep the metal for painting.  This included cleaning out any leftover burnt rubber inside the outer bushing shell.

After hitting the bar with two coats of primer and two coats of Rustoleum semi-gloss black, it was time to install the new bushings.  The bushings are from the Energy Suspension kit I received last Christmas.

After greasing the inside and outside of the bushings with the included super-sticky-won't-come-off-your-fingers grease, I pressed the bushings into the shells.

The bar was then ready to be returned to the car.  I was worried that the bolts inside the car would rotate while applying the 60 ft-lbs of torque required, but luckily they were frozen into place; I really didn't want to pull the interior apart to steady the mounting bolts from above.

Brake drumming

I noticed some surface rust on the rear brake drums on the 280z.  While they are off the car for other work, I thought I would spruce them up a bit.  I started by using a wire wheel on the outer surface to remove the surface rust.

 

I then cleaned the surface with acetone and prepared for painting.  I chose Rustoleum caliper paint for this job.

After two light coats, it was time to wait the prescribed 7 day cure time before returning to the car, which will be no problem, as it will take longer than that to return the differential and other components to the car.

Bolt bath

I had been cleaning all the bolts I've been pulling off the 280z with a wire wheel and wire brushes.  The problem with this approach is that it can be destructive to the corrosion plating.  I happened upon an easier way to clean the grime off these bolts and hardware: a simple soak in concentrated Simple Green.

Grimy bolts need to be cleaned.

Soak the dirty bolts in Simple Green for an hour or more.  I use an old toothbrush after 30 minutes to loosen up the grime. 

After a rinse in water and a towel dry, the bolt is clean and dirt free!

All sealed up and nowhere to go

With the old drive shaft removed from the 280z for replacement, i seized the opportunity to replace the output shaft seal on the transmission.

 

Using a seal puller, I popped the old seal out and cleaned up the area.

Finally, I used a bit of transmission oil on the outside of the seal to allow it to seat easier, then drove the seal into place using (of all things) a Roomba brush cleaner as it was the perfect diameter.  I couldn't use my seal drivers due to the fact that the tail shaft protruded past the transmission housing.  Don't forget to add grease to the inner lips of the seal before installing, as it would be much more difficult to do so afterwards.

Half-shafted

Since most of the drive line is out of the 280z, I've been cleaning up some of the parts that I have removed.  In this case, I am working on the half-shafts.  Using a LOT of engine degreaser, a wire wheel on a drill, and brushes, I cleaned an prepped the shaft for painting.  The prep-and-paint covered some surface rust that had emerged after 40 years.

With the shaft now clean, I can screw a zerk fitting into the universal joints and send some new grease into those needle bearings.

A diff-erent look

With the differential out of the 280z, I decided to clean it up and paint it.  After temporarily reinstalling the cover to protect the insides, I used a selection of wire wheels to remove the old undercoating, paint, and surface rust.  I then masked off the cover and the input shaft.  I already had some plastic bags stuffed into the output shaft holes.

I then used two coats of Rustoleum black caliper paint to cover the housing.

The unit now awaits output shaft seal replacement and a new cover gasket before being returned to the car.  First, a seven day curing period for the paint...

Stick a plug in it!

One of the reasons I dropped the differential from the 280z was the fact that all of my attempts to remove the fill plug were unsuccessful.  My thought was that I would be able to gain better access and more leverage on the plug with the unit out of the car.  I even gave it a bath with some simple green to remove the years of accumulated gunk.

After draining the oil, I removed the cover from the housing.  

I then soaked the plug for a week in a solution of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (said to be many times more effective than PB Blaster).

After the week of soaking the plug, I bolted the cover to something more substantial, in this case two 2x10's secured side-by-side.

I found that no combination of heating, hammering, impact wrench, and breaker bar could remove the fill plug. 

I even broke a wrench that I'd had since I was 12.  Ok, so it was a K-Mart branded wrench and maybe not the best, but my grandfather bought me that set...

My next trick was to weld a 4 foot bar onto the plug.

I did this twice.  The first weld wasn't very strong, but the second was pretty sturdy.  Unfortunately the plug still didn't budge.  Time for a diff-erent approach.

I started by grinding the plug flat.

I then used a drill press to create a 1/2" hole in the middle of the plug.

Then I used a 14 x 1.5 tap to thread the newly created hole.  Note that at this point I had soaked the cover in Simple Green (to clean the sludge from the back side) and used acetone to remove the paint.

 

I picked this plug because it was a bit shorter as well as the fact that it had an integrated rubber gasket.  The length of the plug is important since, when reassembled, the crossmember gives little room with which to remove the new plug.

Blowing Chunks

I previously mentioned that my HVAC blower motor made a whining noise on my last trip.  I decided to remove the unit today and see if I could lubricate the bushings.

To remove the blower motor I had to remove the lower dash trim, glove box door and glove box.  I then was able to unplug the blower motor and remove the unit.  I'll have to admit it was tricky wrestling the blower/squirrel cage assembly out of the housing, but persistence paid off.

The squirrel cage looked to be in great shape, albeit really dirty.  After removing the cage, I began looking for a way to disassemble the motor.  It turns out that this is surprisingly easy.  Start by removing a C-clip on the motor shaft along with a stack of washers.  Be sure to remember the order of all of the parts remove as there are a lot of small washer stacks.

Next, remove the back motor cover by removing the two screws then prying the back cover open; this will reveal the brushes.  There was a lot of dirt accumulated in my motor.

The brush unit is removed by rotating it clockwise about 20-30 degrees, then pulling it out.  I had to lift the brushes over the end of the commutator, taking care not to let them pop out.

At this point the commutator pulled out, although I had to use a bit of force to overcome the pull of the magnets.  At this point I could see lots of dirt inside the motor.

Donning a can of electric motor cleaner, I gave all the motor parts a thorough cleaning.

Once the motor parts were clean, I moved on to the fan itself.  It was pretty nasty.

Who knew the fan blades were actually clear?  I cleaned up the motor housing as well.  Afterwards, I realized that I might be in trouble with the wife for the mess I made in the bathroom sink.

Once things were dry, I began reassembly.  There were no surprises upon reassembly. I did polish the commutator shaft with a Dremel and used white lithium grease in the bushings.  When I removed the motor from the car, I noted that one of the screws was missing; I replaced that screw and used a nylon spacer to replace the missing OE spacer.  I also used some weatherstripping on a missing section of the blower housing.  

Finally, I hit the motor end with some black Krylon paint as I scratched it up a bit when removing.  A quick test showed that the fan worked after re-installation; whether or not the unit begins to whine at high RPM remains to be seen.